PIRAINO
Stretched
out along the spine of a hill, enjoying a strategic position, Piraino
is a small town in the hinterland of the Messina province. It retains
much of its medieval form. According to legend, it was founded by
the cyclops Piracom – Arges in Homer – one ot the three
ministers of Vulcan. Its origins are more likely rooted in the discovery
of large bones in several caves nearby, erroneously believed to
have belonged to the cyclops. The town churches are all strung along
the main street. The Chiesa del Rosario, the easternmost, rebuilt
in 1635, retains a 1500’s belfry. Inside, it has a fine coffered
building with Byzantine-Norman rose windows and an unusual wooden
main altar painted with floral motifs (first half of the 17th century)
decorated with wooden medallions representing the Mysteries of the
Rosary; the wooden figures in the centre of the altar represent
the Madonna with Saints. Further along stands the Chiesa della Catena,
erected in the late 17th century, where the first National elections
were held, after the Unification of Italy. The church contains fine
frescoes in the Byzantine-style, that were recovered from the Chiesa
della Badia.
Beyond
is Piazza del Baglio, named after the complex of low-level workers
houses and workshops arranged around the Palazzo Ducale, built by
the Lancia family (15-16th century). Proceeding westwards, the way
leads up the highest part of the town, where is the beautifully
preserved Torre Saracena or Torrazza, dating back to the 10th century,
that offers a splendid sight over Capo d’Orlando and on the
rooftops nestling below. The tower was part of a defensive system
which would have transmitted signals from the 1500’s Torre
delle Ciavole on the coast, via the Guardiola situated north of
the town, to the Torrazza.
On
the western edge of town, stands the Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria,
built in the 1500’s but extensively refurbished in the following
century. Inside is a wooden altar decorated with floral motifs.
Right of the altar is a fine pilaster ornamented with a shallow-relief
depicting Saint Catherine overcoming the Infidel.
Turn
back towards the coast. On the left rises the Torre delle Ciavole.
Continue on to the small seaside resort of Gioiosa Marea and follow
signs for S. Filippo Armo and S. Leonardo (about 9km) to Gioiosa
Guardia.
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